Jill Sander

"Kalula, ngokukhawuleza, ayiyiyo yedemokhrasi kwaye iyabiza kakhulu" - yindlela enye yezinto ezidumileyo kwiimfashini zefashoni uJil Sander, umdali wakhe nguHeidemarie Zilin Zander, owaziwa ngokuba nguJil Sander, ubonakala. Iimpawu zale nqaku ziye zaqwalaselwa iminyaka emininzi ngabafazi behlabathi lonke umgangatho wokuphakama nokulula.

UJill Sander ngumntu ocebileyo wefashini, umklami ophezulu, umfazi ogqoke ngokugqithiseleyo, ngokumsebenzisa ilungelo lokukhetha ngokukhethekileyo nangendlela engenakulinganiswa. Wayengesabi ukubeka intloko yePrada Holding. Ukukhethwa kwakhe kwaholela ekulahlekelweni kwegama lakhe kunye nokuhoxiswa kwiNdlu yakhe yeNdlu. Kwaye uGil's career akazange aqhube ngokukhawuleza ukuphakama okunjalo. Kodwa malunga nezinto zonke.

Umsebenzi uJill Sander

UJill wazalelwa kwidolophu encinane yaseJamani waza wakhulelwa ngumama ongatshatanga. Imisebenzi yakhe yefashini, akazange aqale nge-internship kwenye yeNdwendwe yeNdwendwe yeNdwendwe, kwaye kungekhona "nesigxina" seentombi zakhe. UJill, njengesiJamani esicatshangayo, waqulunqa kwangaphambili amanqanaba amaninzi emisebenzi yakhe yengomso. Wagqiba ekubeni uhlale "ekhishini" kwimboni yefashini kwaye uqondisise kangcono zonke izinto eziphathekayo zezopolitiko zetekisi. UJill Sander waqala ukulungiselela ukunyuka kwakhe kwiipalimu zehlabathi, esebenza njengomncedisi kumhleli wephephancwadi eligcobileyo uBrigitte eHamburg naseMelika McCalls. Kodwa uJill wayengafuni ukudibanisa ubomi bakhe kunye nokubhala kwefashoni. Wayevutha nomnqweno wokwakha ngokuzimela, kwaye angagxeki abanye abantu. Akusiyo into yokuba wafunda iingubo ekhaya, emva koko eYunivesithi yaseCalifornia.

Xa wayeneminyaka engama-25 ubudala, uJill wavula i-boutique yakhe yokuqala e-Hamburg ngaphantsi kwe-brand Jil Sander, apho izinto zokuqala ezidalwe ngumvelisi omtsha zathengiswa. Ukubonakaliswa kweqoqo lokuqala likaJill Sander laqhutyelwa eParis, kwaye emva konyaka eMilan. Abaninzi abadumileyo, banxibe kakhulu iimpahla zokugqoka, bamangaliswa yindlela ebonakalayo kunye nesetyhini ephakanyiswa nguJill Sander. Yaye isitayela somyili sasichazwa yimigca elula kunye neefom, ubunqabileyo bawo obuye bazaliswa yimpahla emihle. Wayebonakalisa kwihlabathi lonke ukuba i-prostate yinqumle ingabonakala ibhenkce kakhulu, kwaye nayiphi na inkcazo malunga nesiqhelo se-laconism enomdla iya kuba yinto engathandekiyo. Abagxeki baqanjwa ngokuthi nguJill "umkhulu we-minimalism yengqondo." Kodwa iJill yayingefani kuphela ekuhanjisweni kwe-minimalism engqongqo, yaguqula umhlaba wefashini, "yamtshatyalalisa" ngesitayela esinezandla ezininzi ze-onion-look.

Ngasekuqaleni kweminyaka engama-90, uJill Sander wabuyisa i-fashion industry centre-eParis, apho wavula khona i-boutique yokuqala kwi-Avenue Avenue yaseMontaigne. Ngeli xesha uJill wayefumene iJil Sander Cosmetics kunye noJil Sander Leder. Kwakhona waba ngumqambi wokuqala waseFransi owayesebenzela iqoqo lakhe ngaphandle kwelizwe lakubo, kodwa kwi-capital world of fashion - iMilan. Iqoqo zakhe ezityebileyo, ezahlukileyo ngokucacileyo okucacileyo, zenze iJill enye yezona zikhokelo eziphambili zelizwe lamazwe. Phakathi neminyaka engama-90 e-US, uJill Sander wanikezelwa i-Award Group Award, kwaye kamva wawandisa impumelelo yakhe kunye nokuqokelela kweempahla kunye nomgca weqhumiso.

Utshintsho kwindlu yefestile uJil Sander

Ukuphela kwee-90 kwakungokuqala kweengxabano ezinkulu kwiNdlu yeFashion yeJil Sander, xa isigxina esilawulayo kwiPrada Group. Kodwa uhambo olunjalo lwentengiso aluphumelelanga. Ngaphantsi konyaka, uJill waqala ukungavumelani noPatrizio Bertelli, intloko ka Prada. Yonke yaqala ngento yokuba uPatrizio Bertelli wacetyise ukuba iJill isebenzise isitya sokuqokelela iqoqo elula, ngaloo ndlela ibonakalisa ishishini layo. Ngokwemvelo, uJil Sander akavumelani nalokhu. Emva koko wayefuna "ukuhambisa" ukuveliswa kweengubo kwilizwe elincinci. Iqhayiya ngegama lakhe elibizayo igama, uSander akakwazanga ukusinda. Waqhawula umnyango waza wangena ndawo. Ukuqokelela ekwindla-ebusika 2000-2001, njengoko wonke umntu wayecinga ukuba, ngowokugqibela owadalwa nguGili.

Kodwa kwadlula iminyaka emibini, kwaye uJill Sander wamenywa ukuba abuyele kwindlu yakhe yokutyela. Kubonakala ngathi, ngaphandle komdali we-brand, izinto azizange zihambe kakuhle. Iqoqo elilandelayo lisandul 'ulo lonke uluntu loluntu. Umbukeli wamemeza ngokuma! Kodwa, ngelishwa, ukubuya kukaJil Sander akuzange kudlule ixesha elide. Akazange akwazi ukufumana ulwimi oluqhelekileyo kunye nePrada Group, kwaye wabuya kwakhona.

Okwangoku, i-brand iyaphila, kodwa sele isele ubomi obuzimeleyo, ukuphuhlisa izithethe zobuncinci obusondezayo umseli walo mqondiso ubeke. Kwaye uGil Sander ngokwakhe uhlala emthunzini weNdlu yeFestile kwaye ubambelela ngenzondelelo yonke imifuno ephathekayo. Mhlawumbi ukuba uJill Sander wayengakhange akhathele ngabo bonke abanobuqhophololo obuzekayo kwaye engashiyi ibhitshi yakhe, yonke into yayizahluka ... Kodwa wasebenzisa ilungelo lakhe lokukhetha ngokukhethekileyo.